Another passage, another round of happiness on Sophie upon making the next landfall.

We left Rarotonga last Sunday at noon with the plan of heading 450 miles to Beveridge Reef, hang out there for a day or two, then sail another 130 miles to Niue. It would be a nice easy passage for a Sophie crewed by just me and Jenna, with Leo and Hazel as our usual backup crew. We started out with an absolutely lovely 24 hours of gentle tradewind sailing, making 164 miles in pleasant sunshine and 2 meter seas coming from the stern. But the Monday afternoon weather forecast indicated we were heading into 25 knot winds and 4+ meter seas, and we had read in the Soggy Paws Compendium that Beveridge can be an unpleasant anchorage at high tide when there is a big swell (meaning the waves don’t completely break on the reef … some break on your boat). So Jenna and I decided to skip Beveridge, step on the gas and try to make Niue by Wednesday evening. It would require going about 400 miles in 53 hours, which is pushing the boat pretty hard with just 2 of us on watch.

We still had light air on Monday afternoon when we made the decision, but knew that the front would pass by us that night and bring with it a strong southeasterly wind. In the meantime we decided to motorsail to cover more ground. About 2 hours after we turned on an engine, Leo and I were in the salon when we heard a loud CRASH Thump thump. We couldn’t figure out what made the noise. Leo thought it may have been a cardboard tube falling over, but when I looked out the window I realized that it was caused by the radar reflector (above) falling off the mast and landing on the deck. The radar reflector is a sculpture of metal, glass and plastic that is bolted to the boat and strengthens the signal we present to other boat’s radar. In other words, it helps other boats see us at night or in the fog. Apparently the bounciness of the anchorage in Rarotonga (which is a great island but incredibly bouncy harbor) had caused the nut holding the reflector to its mount on the mast to work loose, enabling the whole thing to come off while underway. It must have landed on a cushion or the trampoline when it made the crashing noise, because there is no visible dent on the deck.

That night, the front came through, the wind shifted around counterclockwise from the northeast to the southwest, and we turned off the motor and settled in for a 36 hour romp with 2 reefs in the mainsail and the jib. Dealing with the windshift was interesting but it was relatively quick and nothing broke. While we were in Rarotonga, Margaret had done an excellent job repairing the tear in our mainsail, and we were thankful that Jenna and I had rerigged it with care, making sure everything was greased, secure and tight. Sophie sailed really well with this rig up until we came up to our mooring on Wednesday afternoon.

And she needed to. It turned out that we had 30+ knots of wind and 4-5 meter seas all day Tuesday and Wednesday. The waves were coming a little more from the stern than on our trip from Bora Bora to the Cooks, but it was still pretty bouncy and we had one fewer adult crew. At one point on Tuesday, we were in a trough between waves, when two different swells combined and crashed over Sophie’s port quarter at the same time. The salon door was closed but the sliding window was open. About 6 inches of water made it into the aft cockpit, water came through the open window, and the whole boat jerked sideways from the force. It was our first “rogue wave” on Sophie, but fortunately nothing broke except my Nespresso machine, which fell to the galley floor. Even though we did a good job securing the cabin before departure, we plan to stow away a bit more going forward. We had a couple of other bounces along the trip, and we broke one wine glass. But all in all Sophie proved once again that she is a solid offshore boat. We were sailing 8-10 knots in rough weather and 20-25 knots of apparent wind on a broad reach, but with our reefs in the boat didn’t feel strained at all.

I also want to point out at this point that our usual backup crew, Leo and Hazel, have turned into pretty solid offshore sailing kids. They think it’s totally normal to fall asleep at night in their beds to the sound of waves crashing against the hull as Sophie surfs along at high speed. They never get scared, they never complain, and they love to watch movies. Jenna and I are extremely lucky to have them.   From noon Tuesday to noon Wednesday we sailed 208 miles, which is Sophie’s first ever 200+ mile day. We made Niue by 4:00 PM (Rarotonga time) and were relieved to safely pick up a mooring at Niue’s anchorage off the town of Alofi.

Just to give you a sense of the weather we sailed through, take another look at the photo at the top of the blog. That’s the swell we went through crashing against the southern cliffs of Niue, sending surf up to 100 feet into the air.

Here is a map of Niue taken from our chartplotter. As you can see, it doesn’t really have a harbor, simply an anchorage on its west coast that provides excellent shelter from wind and waves coming from the north, east and south.

Here is a photo of the surf crashing on Niue’s southwest coast, with swells coming around the southern tip of the island. It’s another indication of the power of the system we sailed through.

Here is a shot of Sophie on a mooring in the anchorage. That’s Mahina Tiare III right next to her, in addition to the 5 other boats in the mooring field. Another front is predicted to come through this weekend, and we have elected to stay here even through 20+ knot winds are expected from the west for one day. Hopefully it won’t get too rough.

So we are going to hang out here for a week. We are looking forward to exploring the island. Since it gets too bouncy here to tie dinghies to the wharf when you go into town, they have a system where you use an electric crane to lift your dinghy out of the water and park it on the wharf. I’ve heard about this for years, and it it was pretty cool to put it into action. This picture was taken Thursday morning. We were too tired after arriving on Wednesday to clear customs, so we missed a potluck barbecue at the Niue Yacht Club, “The Smallest Big yacht Club in the World”. They maintain the mooring field here and provide a social gathering spot for the yachties that come through. As a consolation for missing the barbecue, Jenna prepared steak au poivre and garlic shrimp as our arrival dinner, and we promptly passed out and slept 12 hours that night.

It was nice to finally get on land and explore the town of Alofi. We completed our paperwork, visited (and joined) the NYC, and ate lunch at a local cafe. Hazel enjoyed her milkshake, with all memories of the passage long gone.

Only 1,000 people live on this Island, and they all speak Kiwi. We plan to rent a car for a couple of days, explore the local caves, go swimming, and keep an eye out for the humpback whales that are apparently sleeping in the anchorage at night. We haven’t seen any yet, but there are a ton of fish here and I caught two last night that looked like small tunas (chunks of mahi mahi as bait on a 1 inch hook).

Some final thoughts on Rarotonga. As I implied earlier, we absolutely loved the island and the people but hated the anchorage. The local economy seems to be based on tourism from New Zealand, and after spending a week with the Kiwis here we CAN’T WAIT until we arrive in Opua in November and begin our 6 months in New Zealand. Unlike Bora Bora, where the tourism is centered around a model where people fly in to and remain within their resort for a week, the tourism in Rarotonga assumes people get out and see everything on the island. It reminded me of middle class tourism spots in the US like Cape Cod or the Oregon Coast. We had fried seafood from roadside shacks, saw the film “Monsters University” at a local fundraiser for a school trip, enjoyed the local dancing girls in their coconut bras (above) at the Saturday market, and even played 18 holes of minigolf. It was a great experience, and I would love to come back here again some day, preferably by plane.

And as I’ve said before, we are so lucky to be doing this trip. It’s an experience of a lifetime.

There is absolutely no better sight in the world these days than seeing land after a rough offshore passage. Here is a shot of Rarotonga in the Cook Islands right before our landfall on Monday afternoon after a bouncy 535 mile trip that Sophie covered in 3 days.

I am not sure what was more eventful, the runup to the passage or the passage itself. We’ll let you decide.

When we last updated you, I was in diplomatic limbo in Seattle while awaiting word from the French government on whether or not they would issue a visa that would allow me to rejoin Jenna and the kids in French Polynesia. I flew down to the French Consulate in San Francisco a week ago Monday and was told I had to return there on Tuesday morning to see the Visa office, which was in another department across the hall. So I hung out with my college friends Phil and Peter Monday night in Oakland and then returned to the French visa office on Tuesday. I didn’t have an appointment so had to wait an hour, but finally had the opportunity to speak with the local head of the visa department, who got annoyed with me and basically said (from behind a glass security wall) “You’ve called me three times, I can’t give you an emergency visa, I wouldn’t even know how to enter it into my computer, you just need to get on a plane to Tahiti and see what happens …. Besides, that involves Customs, which is a different department than Visas, and I have no idea what they will do.”

Well, THAT made me feel good. I then flew down to Los Angeles with a ticket on the evening Air Tahiti Nui flight to Papeete out of LAX. When I got to the ticket counter, the lady asked me if I had a visa or a return ticket. I had neither, but I showed her my departure bond (which we got as participants in the Pacific Puddle Jump rally) while asking if it would be possible for me to buy an upgrade to Business Class. That seemed to change everything. I got my ticket, got on the plane, and flew to Tahiti. In Papeete, I was the first one in line at Customs, they barely looked at my passport, gave me a new stamp, and let me into the country. The next day I flew up to Bora Bora, and we were all together again.

What a relief.

Meanwhile, Jenna was holding down the fort on Sophie with the kids and the Riebelings in Bora Bora. She was worried (Leo thinks “worried” is an understatement) about me but at least was in the company of friends in one of the most beautiful spots in the world while I was in the States. This is a photo of the kids celebrating Canada Day at a potluck party at the Mai Kai with the local Canadian cruisers. Hazel and Leo don’t realize that they are 25% Canadian, but can’t you just tell by looking at the photo?

So on the Friday after I returned to Bora Bora, we left for Rarotonga with Karl and Hans Riebeling as guest crew. Tanya Riebeling had to return to the States the day before.

The trip got off to a great start. Twenty miles out of Bora Bora, we sailed through a couple of hunting birds, and I turned around and watched an electric turquoise blue Mahi Mahi arc through the air as it swam to hit the “Bad Boy” lure (which has been subsequently renamed “the German Flag”) which was trolling from our fishing pole. As the fish ran with the line, Jenna and Karl expertly stopped the boat but we (I) lost the fish. But the sight of that Mahi Mahi arcing through the air – specifically its intense blue color – is a sight I will carry with me for the rest of my life.

As a consolation, 30 minutes later we landed a 10 pound Yellowfin on one of the meat lines. It made us all pretty happy.

The weather, unfortunately, did not make us very happy. The wind picked up to 20+ knots that evening and remained in the 25-35 knot range through Monday morning. We were sailing southwest, and the wind and 4-5 meter swell was coming from the southeast, so we were getting hit hard by waves and wind from our port beam for three days. Friday evening we decided to play it safe and put a third reef into Sophie’s mainsail, which was a first for us. At some point later that night a tear developed in the mainsail right above the reefpoint at the mast. We got pounded and bounced around. It was pretty uncomfortable for all of us.

On Saturday morning, things became interesting.

While in Bora Bora, I had bought a new large squid lure called “The Hawaiian Breakfast”. When I was at the counter of the fishing store, I asked the counter dude why the lure had two small holes drilled into its face. He looked around, leaned forward, and whispered “because they create a stream of bubbles, and the bubbles drive the fish wild.” I was totally hooked. Anyway, we had The Hawaiian Breakfast on a new 200 lb. meat line on the outer port side, and it caught a 10 kilo Wahoo, also known as an “Ono”.

I was able to pull this in by myself. It was way cool, the biggest fish caught on Sophie to date. An hour later we had a double Mahi Mahi takedown on the two inner meatlines! (One of these was using a new silver and gray lure Hans had labeled “The Cougar”. For the life of us Jenna and I could not figure out how that lure had anything to do with being a cougar until Hans pointed out that it had the colors of Washington State).

So to celebrate the double takedown, Jenna took this photo of me holding the two newest fish. We were stoked! Over a 14 hour period we had caught 4 fish totaling 60 pounds. Our freezer was going to be full. But then as I set the 2 fish down, I accidentally stepped on this …

… the mouth of the dead Wahoo which was still on the deck. Its teeth were like razor blades, and they cut an uncomfortably deep distance into the bottom of my left big toe. In the civilized world it would have required immediate stitches, however we were in 30 knot seas 150 miles from the nearest rural clinic. So Jenna consulted on the phone with her sister Julie and my dad (both doctors), and she did a great job dressing the wound.

So there we were. Storm conditions, torn mainsail, lacerated captain (under treatment for epilepsy), seasick kids, and good friends. Living the dream.

It calmed down a little on Monday, and we turned on the engines to make Rarotonga before nightfall. I didn’t want to risk spreading the tear in the mainsail by shaking out the reefs, and none of us wanted to enter the harbor at dark.

We made the harbor by three in the afternoon. It’s very small and exposed to the wind and swell from the north. But we were tired and SO GLAD to be in port. Especially in such a friendly island where EVERYONE SPEAKS ENGLISH.

We had radioed ahead, and the harbormaster drove me in his truck up the mountain to the local hospital. A doctor looked at the wound and said Jenna had done a great job keeping it clean.  He then had a grandmother nurse clean the wound and change the dressing. She reminded me of my mother (also a nurse) up to the point when she was done with the shift and proceeded to wrap herself in a wool blanket and then hopped onto a motorcycle to drive home.

We love the Cook Islands so far. People are incredible friendly. We got the mainsail down and a local seamstress named Margaret is repairing it. The children made 6 new friends at the playground yesterday. Jenna bought drinks for the kids from a drink shack, and it didn’t have change, so someone grabbed her money then returned 5 minutes later with change, happy to have helped.

And the food is great. (That’s marlin sashimi right next to the smoked marlin.)

The only sad thing about the Cooks is that Karl and Hans had to leave us Monday night. We are blessed to have such good friends join us for almost 3 weeks. The Riebelings are a wonderful family, and we miss them very much.

We’ll spend a few more days here in Rarotonga, and then we are off to the island of Niue via a stopover in Beveridge Reef. The journey continues.

I had another seizure Sunday night.

It was similar to the one I had in May, and Jenna and I agreed that I should get on the next flight back to the US to see doctors in Seattle to manage my care long-term. I did so and landed at SeaTac Tuesday afternoon. Unfortunately, my 90 day visa to French Polynesia has expired, and I have no legal no way to get back to Bora Bora until I am issued an emergency visa. Jenna was able to get a 3 week extension for her and the kids due to my medical emergency, but I am in diplomatic limbo as we try to get the attention of the visa department of the French Consulate in San Francisco. We spent Thursday and Friday working with the visa department of the French Consulate in Los Angeles, and they were vey cool, but ultimately determined the consulate in San Francisco has jurisdiction for US citizens in Seattle, so I need to work directly with them now.

Here an excerpt from the letter Jenna wrote to the French government explaining the situation:

Urgent visa for medical emergency

Eloquent and riveting as usual. All I want is permission to enter French Polynesia so I may be reunited with my family and leave on my sailboat for the Cook Islands.

We’ve thought about the idea of having Jenna take the boat directly to the Cook Islands and I could meet her there, but when I first looked at the weather forecast for Aitutake this week it looked like she’d be facing winds up to 30 knots in 4 meter seas with an 8 second period. The forecast has subsequently gotten a little better, but based on these conditions the kids will be holding bowls on their laps for 3 days during the 500 mile passage.

Meanwhile, in Seattle I went to see Dr. Alan Wilensky at the University of Washington Regional Epilepsy Center. By having a second seizure Sunday night, by most definitions of the word, it means I have epilepsy, even if I never have another seizure. But as I learn more about it, I realize its not that big of a deal. Remember, I used to have cancer.

Sorry we haven’t gotten a blog post in for a couple of weeks, but Sophie is now in Bora Bora, the site of Jenna’s and my honeymoon exactly 10 years ago, and we’ve been busy.

Last night we attended the opening of a month-long cultural festival/dance competition involving groups representing villages from across Bora Bora. The highlight for me was most definitely the group from Faanui, above, which featured over eighty dancers backed by a chorus of fifty singers and drummers. They claimed their performance was an original interpretive work titled “Land: Proof of My Existence” (I wish Max was still here to help me parse that one), but I knew the dance was really just one big collective booty shake in celebration of my nephew Danny’s birthday, which is today, and is celebrated throughout the world with similar dances.

The Island put a great deal of work into preparing the venue for the cultural celebration/birthday party, and the results are impressive. The main performance area is a quad of packed sand 50 meters a side with a viewing stand on one end and a decorative tiki platform on the other, all surrounded by a village of palm huts used as game rooms, changing rooms, band rooms, and facilities for the 250 people who help administer the event (we assume this is subsidized by the French government). Off to the side is another collection of huts that have been turned into a street of 15 restaurants and bars that we’ve been told stay open until 3:00 AM. The whole area is lit up with Christmas lights and is filled with smiling families and tourists from the hotels, a cruise ship, and les bateaux. It was all built in the last week, and we plan to come here every day we remain in Bora Bora. It’s that cool.

Earlier this week we went swimming out by the reef and anchored next to a tour boat that was feeding the sharks and rays. We were anchored in 3-4 feet of water, and one could simply stand there and watch the sharks and sting rays happily swim right up to you and say hello. Jenna was in heaven shooting a lot of photos and video. Hazel absolutely refused to get out of the dinghy. She is still recovering from having a moray eel lick her leg a week ago. Leo swam right up to the sharks but got his fill within a few minutes. Me? I was mostly looking out to the other (ocean) side of the reef for signs of birds indicating the presence of tuna and Mahi Mahi.

While anchored off the motu Topua here, the Mahina Tiare III motored by and said hello. This sailboat is a well-known Hallberg Rassy 46 sloop and is owned by John Neal and Amanda Swan-Neal, who operate a cruising school that takes students on offshore legs throughout the world. John is originally from Seattle, and he and Amanda spend a couple of months a year in the Pacific Northwest and speak frequently on the west coast boat show circuit. I first toured the Mahina Tiare III at a Seattle boat show in 1999, and I liked the boat so much I bought a similar model and named it Sarita after my daughter Sara. They currently have 6 students and are on a 3 weeks trip from Papeete to the Cook Islands. We invited all of them over to Sophie for a glass of wine and a tour of the boat, which they all seemed to enjoy a great deal. This meant a lot to me and Jenna, because John and Amanda have been a big inspiration to us over the years.

The visit was a lot of fun, and they countered by graciously asking us to join their crew the following evening for dinner at Bloody Mary’s, the famous Polynesian bar and restaurant on the south side of the island. The restaurant has its own dock, mooring balls, and 33 year history. Jenna and I ate there twice during our honeymoon 10 years ago and were eager to return.

The restaurant hasn’t changed during that time: sand floors, topical décor, and a menu laid out on an ice table as you walk in. It was a great dinner with a fun crowd. Our fish was excellent.

Bloody Mary’s is right up the street from the Hotel Bora Bora, the place where Jenna and I stayed during our first visit to the island. Sadly that hotel has changed a great deal since our honeymoon. It’s basically destroyed, the victim of business disputes, cyclones, and overbuilding. We heard that tourism in French Polynesia right now is at the same level it was in 1981.  There are several waterfront hotel complexes on Bora Bora that are similarly abandoned, and the rest either have caretakers or operate at half-capacity. Apparently the hotels in the Cook Islands and Fiji are doing quite well, but that is not the case here. It’s too bad tourism hasn’t fully resumed, regardless of the reason, given how beautiful it is here.

I’ve gone fishing twice in the last week, both times trolling in the dinghy outside the reef. The first time was with Leo, and we used a GPS to track our location as we headed 5 miles out. After a couple of hours we finally found the flock of birds, and there were even 2 local commercial boats trolling right where we were. Unfortunately, the wind picked up when we got there, and Leo and I decided to head back in. Safety first, especially in the dinghy! For the second time I went out by myself and after 90 minutes spotted hundreds of birds feeding on a fast moving school of bait. I raced around for an hour chasing them with my lines in. I didn’t catch anything but have to say it was one of my best fishing experiences ever. It was amazing.

This morning our friends the Riebelings arrived for a 3 week stay. We are so excited! They’ll be joining us as we head from Bora Bora to the Cooks. This marks the beginning of a 6 month stint where we have friends from Seattle visiting us every month. That’s Tanya and Jenna and Sophie, all in the water together, hanging out. It’s what we frequently do.

We kicked off the Riebeling visit with lunch at the Bora Bora Yacht Club where we presented the staff with a Seattle Yacht club burgee, which they promptly hung directly over the center of their bar.

Anyone from Seattle who visits this part of the world definitely needs to check it out.

Finally, I flew back to Papeete this week for a follow-up visit with the doctors. Everything looks good from their end. The trip continues. Like I’ve said before on these pages, we’re blessed. There will be plenty to write about as we continue on our journey, so stay tuned. We’ll keep rolling along.

As some of you know, yesterday was my birthday. I got to choose how we would spend the day, and I chose to go fishing. So we got up at 6:30 AM and motored over to the gas station, which is what all the fishermen here do before they head out. Unfortunately they weren’t selling duty free fuel (which we are eligible to buy), so we skipped the diesel. But I did buy some donuts, baguettes, new sunglasses (I’ve gone through three pairs since March), and the bad boy pictured above. That baby is fifteen inches long with 2 inch wide hooks and will be towed behind Sophie from now until the end of time.

Happy Birthday to Me!

By the way, one potential problem with leaving at 6:30 AM to go fishing is that if you and your wife stayed up until 2:00 AM that same morning watching the complete fifth season of the TV series “Friday Night Lights”, you can be a little tired.

But that didn’t stop us. After the Shell Station we motored out of Teavapiti Pass on Raiatea to go fishing. It was a sunny day with a 15 knot easterly and a small 1-2 meter swell with a long period (15 seconds) coming from the south. The shorter the period, the steeper the waves and the greater the discomfort if you were heading into them. 15 seconds means not much discomfort. Our plan was to cover a triangular course: head east about 10 miles away from Raiatea towards Huahine (which is 20 miles away), then turn west-northwest towards Toahotu Pass and Tahaa, the island immediately north of Raiatea that shares a reef with it.

When we came over from Huahine last week, we caught a tuna in this middle ground between the two atolls and assumed that was where we would catch the big one using the bad boy pictured above. As part of last week’s catch, we saw over a 100 birds hanging out at this spot, feeding heavily on small surface fish. The theory and practice around here is that if there are birds feeding on the top, there are predator fish (tunas, mahi mahi, marlin, etc.) feeding from below. So the whole idea is to look for birds feeding, troll through and around them, and then catch fish.

When Max and Becca were with us, we passed a couple of these bird feeding towers. When we got our subsequent double takedown/whale siting a week later, it was through one of these spots. So yesterday, that was what we were looking for.

What did we see? Nothing. The occasional bird flying low over the water doing the same thing we were doing, looking for fish. We saw nowhere near as many flying fish as normal. There weren’t even many fishing boats out.

But it was a beautiful, sunny day, and we weren’t complaining. For the last week we’ve had a series of fronts come through and the weather has been pretty bad with consistent 20-30 knot winds along with 3-5 meter swells with a relatively short period along with frequent rain. We’ve been quite happy to have been holed up inside the reef of Raiatea during this time.

So we went out to our 10 mile spot and saw no birds but did see two local fishing boats who were fishing for tuna at depth. This involves using baited hooks similar in size to the ones on bad boy above, except instead of trolling they were attached to 20 pound rocks which in turn were attached to plastic floats the size of a soccer ball which in turn were attached to their boat. The idea is that the fish hits the bait, becomes exhausted hauling the rock/float combo and is then pulled into the boat by hand. We had seen a guy in Manihi catch a 40 pound Yellowfin right outside the southern pass using this technique.

But that wasn’t our plan, so we circled these guys, waved hello, and made our turn towards Tahaa.

With that turn, our ride became much more comfortable since we were now heading with the wind and the swell. It wasn’t bad before the turn, meaning we weren’t getting spray up to the flybridge, there really weren’t many whitecaps, and the kids down below watching movies weren’t getting sick.

But after the turn it felt like we were out for a cruise on Lake Washington.

By the way, have I mentioned lately that Jenna seems to be doing all of the boat driving and navigation these days? Well, she is and she loves it and has become quite good at it. I love it too because it frees me up to do boat projects and more importantly, to fish.

And it makes me occasionally realize that I actually had the luck to marry a girl who likes to drive boats.

So after she made the turn and we headed back to Tahaa’s eastern pass, I kind of whined, said it was my birthday and asked if we could go around Tahaa and enter the lagoon from its western pass, Papai. This would add at least 2 more hours to our trolling even though it was near noon and we were exhausted from our TV marathon the night before. But it was a beautiful day and our trip would force us to look at Bora Bora. It’s only 10 miles away and was the site of our honeymoon 10 years ago along with being our next destination after Tahaa.

So of course she said yes and went downstairs to make pizza baguette paninis for the kids while letting them know that their movie marathon, pretty much their longest since San Diego, would continue through the afternoon. No complaints there.

So we trolled along Tahaa’s northern and western coast, saw the occasional hungry bird and startled flying fish, and nothing else.

After entering Papai pass, Jenna drove the boat inside the lagoon around Tahaa’s southern points and we then picked up a mooring in Haamene Bay in front of the Hotel Hibiscus. There was still some daylight, so Jenna did her 75 pushups (we’re both still following the book) while the kids and I played Rat-A-Tat-Cat. We then played a birthday game of Scrabble. Leo won, mainly by getting a bingo on a triple word score on his first turn.

We then dinghied in to the hotel’s restaurant, which is appropriately names Chez Leo. It’s what we thought all of the beach restaurants in Polynesia would actually look like: big open room that reeks of history with hundreds of flags and burgees hanging from the ceiling.

There was one other party/boat there, Scott Piper and crew from the J/Boat Pipe Dream IX. He’s on his fifth circumnavigation and we’ve been supposed to meet up with him somewhere in this neck of the woods. (Mike and Lee Brown, we finally did it! And yes, we are now using Costco vodka instead of a baseball bat to kill our fish.)

Man, did we pick a great place to eat! There’s no menu here, just Fredo greeting you and saying “tonight we have crab, fish, and New Zealand steak.  For entrees we have quiche Lorraine and fish carpaccio.”

We simply said “yes”.

We all had the quiche, Jenna and I had the carpaccio, Jenna and Leo had the crab, I had the marlin steak, and Hazel had the kiwi steak. They even brought out a caramelized tarte tatin with coconut for my birthday cake.

It was a wonderful meal that capped off a wonderful day. I am quite grateful with how my life is going right now.

Except I wish I could catch more fish. 🙂

Well, I’ve spent the last week trying to figure out how on earth I was ever going to write a blog post that could follow the words Jenna shared with all of you last week. I am feeling much better, our boat life is back to normal, and Max and Becca have safely returned to their lives in the U.S. I don’t think (and certainly hope) that anything I write or do can ever match the passion and excitement and terror she captured on these pages last week. I will do my best to be much more boring from now on.

But today was kind of cool.

We had our third double takedown of our journey this afternoon. If you recall, a double takedown is when you land two fish at the same time. That’s a photo of me this afternoon with my new yellowfin tuna tattoo on my right arm, my new yellowfin tuna in my right hand, and a bluejack tuna in my left. And this time we caught them with a twist.

Our day started in Moorea at 5:00 AM with the goal of making the 80 mile passage to Huahine, the closest of the Leeward islands in the Society Archipelago. Given last week’s excitement, we wanted to do the passage in daylight so it made sense for us to get an early start.

The weather forecast called for 20 knot winds and 2-3 meter seas, and that’s exactly what we got when we left Cook’s Bay. Fortunately it was all directly behind us, but unfortunately the wind and waves were too squirrelly for us to sail at the speed we needed in order to make Huahine by nightfall. Since we had completely full fuel tanks, we decided to motor, and motoring means trolling with the 2 meat lines along with the tuna pole.

Now other than a 1 pound bonito that Becca caught and whacked last week, we hadn’t caught a fish trolling on Sophie in over a month. I was beginning to experience some serious feelings of (fishing) inadequacy, and they didn’t go away during our first 7 hours of trolling today. We saw tons of birds on the water, and flying fish were a constant companion. But nothing went after our lines.

Please don’t misunderstand me, though, we were having a lovely passage. The seas were a little rough but we are all used to that by now. The kids were downstairs watching movies and weren’t getting sick. At one point they even had a dance party. Jenna and I were up top in the sun reading. There wasn’t much chatter on the radio, and we only saw one other boat. We were making good time. Sophie was working well and seemed to be happy.

Then around 2:00 PM it all changed when a fish hit the lure on the tuna pole. I had just re-lubed the reel yesterday, and it made a nice loud “WIZZZZZZZZZZZ” noise as the fish ran with the lure. I ran down to grab the pole while yelling for Jenna to stop the boat. I could tell it was a smallish tuna, and as I pulled the pole from the rod holder I saw that a yellowfin tuna had grabbed the lure on the port meat line. Two hits at once! Opportunity for a double takedown! I yelled for Jenna to see if she could pull in that meatline fish while I dealt with the fish on the pole.

And then I saw the whale.  It looked like a big yellowish orca less than 100 feet from the port side of the boat. “Jenna, forget the meatline. Get your camera. THERE’S A WHALE!!!!”

So she ran off to do that, and I had two fish to land. Leo ran out to the aft cockpit, put on his lifejacket, and assumed the invaluable role of wingman. Fortunately, the fish on the pole was a small bluejack — in the 5 pound category — and could be reeled up to the boat pretty easily. I didn’t even bother netting him and simply yanked him out of the water onto the deck. Leo handed me the bat and I whacked him, getting blood all over my brand new white shirt. (Becca, you left 2 days too early). This fish was still flopping all over the deck, so I threw him into the net and asked Leo to hold him down.

Meanwhile, while all of this is taking place, we are getting a color commentary from Jenna: “Jamie, there are two …. no three whales, and they are really close to the boat … they are bigger than dolphins…. they are not sharks because they are breathing from blow holes …. there is one 40 feet right behind the boat RIGHT NOW”.

But I had another fish to catch so I really couldn’t look up. And I was a little scared that the whale would try to eat my tuna. So while Leo was holding down the bluejack, I grabbed the gaff and went to the port meat line. I started pulling it in with my hands but then the line got wrapped around my fingers just as the fish went on a run. Not good. So I let go of the line to put on a pair of gloves. I thought I had lost the fish but after a few pulls it was clear he was still on the line. I got him to the boat, saw that he was a small yellowfin, and figured I wouldn’t bother with the gaff and simply pulled him up onto the deck. It worked. Whack. Two fish in the box. Dry spell over. 5 meals in the freezer plus dinner tonight. All while these exotic Tahitian whales were hanging out right next to us.

How cool is all of that?

We have to look up what kind of whales they were because we don’t know. Jenna needs to see if she captured any with her camera. Dan Rogers: my Reverse Albright held beautifully with no snags as I reeled the leader in.

Most importantly, as you can all hopefully tell from today’s narrative, I am feeling great! I seem to have recovered from last week’s unpleasantness. I am on some special meds for the next month, and they have no apparent side effects so far. I will even renew my quest to do 100 pushups tomorrow after a week’s hiatus.

So a double takedown with whales surfacing all around us means back to boring. Thank you, all of you, for your prayers and warm thoughts last week. It meant a lot to me and to my family. I will do my best to make sure nothing lie that ever happens again.

On with the trip.

Jenna here. First, I want to let you know Jamie is ok. Early Wednesday morning he had a seizure. All his test results have come back normal and he has felt fine since then. We went by ambulance to the hospital on Moorea and then ferried to the main hospital in Papeete where he’s been under excellent care in the neurology unit. They have run many tests including CT scans, MRI, EKG, EEG, blood work, etc. and so far everything has come back clean. The doctors are running one more cardio test today, but felt he was doing well enough to let him out last night so he could go out to dinner and stay with us on Sophie.

I was planning a lightweight follow up to Jamie’s tattoo post when this happened. Instead, here is my account of what transpired that I wrote late Wednesday night after we got his first test results.

Wednesday
Around 7:15am Jamie seemed to be having a nightmare. I woke up to him mumbling and then sort of crying out in his sleep.  I shook his arm to wake him and said “Jamie you’re having a nightmare,” but he didn’t rouse and I realized this was actually my worst nightmare. Something was horribly wrong. He grabbed his chest, screamed, and started writhing and convulsing while his eyes rolled back into his head. His jaw clamped shut and I expected him to start foaming at the mouth any second.  I held his hand and heard myself screaming “No! Are you having a heart attack? Can you hear me? Do you hear me? Jamie!” while a thousand thoughts raced through my head. Do I remember CPR? Why didn’t we get that portable defibrillator? What do you do during a seizure?  Could this be a stroke? Could it be all three? How am I going to get you to shore? Don’t you dare! Don’t you dare die on me right now, Jamie! Maybe all of that was out loud too. I’m not sure how long this lasted, probably less than a minute, but it felt like forever. Then he was unconscious. He had a pulse but didn’t respond. At all. This was the most terrifying moment of my life. What now?

We were anchored near Opunohu Bay, off the beach about a kilometer down from a Hilton resort, so after I screamed for Max and Becca to wake up I called the hotel concierge to help get an ambulance dispatched to our beach. They were wonderful. Within minutes I had also consulted with Jamie’s dad and my sister Julie (doctors in the family), put Leo in charge of breakfast and playing Rat-a-Tat Cat with Hazel, and started throwing some things in a bag. Jamie went in and out of consciousness a few times during the 15 minutes we waited for the ambulance. The first time he couldn’t speak and I didn’t think his eyes focused when he looked at me. The next time he recovered a little more. He was confused, not remembering where we were and repeated questions. Thank God! I was thrilled he could say anything at all and able to move his arms and legs. In and out again, but then he began to recall parts of the last few days and became curious about the gaps. Of course, he wanted to get up right away and I wouldn’t let him.

Max and Becca met the pompiers at the beach with the dinghy and soon we had 3 of Moorea’s finest with a stretcher on board. By this time, Jamie was able to sit up and talk, then walk up the steps from our cabin and climb onto the back board. He requested sunglasses before the firemen lowered him into the dinghy. I can’t tell you how thankful we are to have Max and Becca here. While I imagine that I could have handled all of this by myself if I had to, it means the world to me that they are here and could manage everything. I had the luxury of staying with Jamie without worrying at all about the kids or the boat. Thank you two!

Here’s a shot of Jamie going to shore. We had to make a few trips to shuttle everyone on and off Sophie. The pompiers and EMTs were great, but spoke almost no English, like most of the hospital workers, so today really put my French to the test.

The hospital on Moorea is on the eastern shore, about 15 minutes from the boat. It’s a twisty road, but the EMTs were happy to pose for a photo along the way since Jamie’s vitals looked good.

Jamie saw a terrific French lady doctor who the nurses said is “absolutely the best, trained in Paris.” She confirmed it wasn’t a heart attack, didn’t appear to be a stroke, and most likely was simply une crise convulsive. Otherwise known as a seizure. I heard this phrase a lot today. The protocol here for a first time seizure is basically to do nothing… unless, she said… you ask for scans. And are willing to pay. She recommended going to the main hospital in Papeete on Tahiti since she doesn’t have CT or MRI equipment in Moorea. The next ferry was scheduled to leave in an hour. Ok, sounds great. At this point I figured out we had forgotten a few things. Jamie wasn’t wearing shoes. The staff thought we were a little crazy not to have them but who wears shoes in bed? I also hadn’t eaten anything. Or changed clothes. Or brushed my hair or teeth or even stepped into the bathroom before we left in the ambulance. But I did manage to bring our passports, wallets, phone and a Surface with chargers, and the snappy camera that was in the bag I grabbed. We travelled by ambulance, with nurse Carole and two other patients who were much worse off than Jamie, to the ferry and 30 minutes after that arrived in Tahiti. Another ambulance shuttled us to the emergency room.

Check out Jamie’s blue hospital booties.

Jamie and I sat up in the front seat and it was fascinating to speed through town with sirens blaring, tearing through red lights with almost a bird’s eye view of the traffic parting to let us through.

Do you ever have that feeling that someone is calling your name but then you turn around and can’t find them? This kept happening to me while checking in. I thought I was imagining it, until nurse Jenna showed up to take Jamie’s blood pressure. Same spelling. Phew! Those weren’t voices in my head after all.

French Polynesia hospital policy is different than the US. Only Jamie was allowed to go in and I had to stay in the waiting room. It was 1:30pm and I still hadn’t eaten. Jamie of course sent out a nurse almost immediately to dismiss me to the café. Winding my way through a long hospital corridor in search of food brought back memories of 5 years ago. I picked at a bacon and ham quiche (because at a time like this one smoked meat just isn’t enough. Don’t you love the French?) and then made my way back through the hallway and elevator maze to the urgence waiting room. Jamie was admitted overnight for more tests and observation. His biggest complaint was his sore mouth from biting his tongue during la crise. I had just over an hour to catch the last ferry back to Moorea, the boat and the kids, so as Jamie swallowed some anti-seizure medication and they started his IV line, I left for the harbor. I always love being on the water, but the highlight of my return trip was the bus I took from the ferry terminal back to the boat. It was filled with locals heading home from work in the city and it was fascinating to listen to their stories and connect them with their homes as they hopped off.

The kids had a fun day playing at the beach with Max and Becca and I got the biggest, much needed hugs from them. They were so excited to share every detail of the day. Batteries were down a little so I started the genset, which promptly stalled a few seconds later and flashed fault #7 (loss of raw water flow). Thank you Murphy’s law. It looks like we need to replace the impeller again. Jamie usually does this so we’ll see if he gets out in time to fix it. Otherwise I have a new project. Batteries are still at 73% so we’re ok for now. Love that battery bank!

I finally spoke to Jamie around 10pm. He’s been moved to the neurology unit, had a CT scan and chest x-ray, and the doctor says everything looks ok so far. An MRI and blood work are on tap for tomorrow. Feels like old times. Jamie sounds back to normal and I’m sure he’s entertaining the staff. He says not to worry and that the hospital food is way better here than in Seattle.

I’ll move the boat to Papeete first thing in the morning. It feels pretty routine to do this now, like driving a car to the mall.

On a separate note, I have had several requests to write more blog posts and post more photos and had actually begun a follow up to Jamie’s previous post when this all happened. I am starting to get used to my ink. In the waiting room today I noticed the ray’s wings also resemble sails, which makes me smile. My children make me smile. Jamie makes me smile. I love this crazy wild adventure we are on together and how much we are learning about the world and ourselves, maybe even more at the end of a day we’re thrown a curveball.

Update

It was great to have Jamie home for the night. He changed the impeller on the genset and then we had Chinese food at the nearby outdoor food market where food trucks set up each night and musicians play. He’s back at the hospital for the last tests today and although we await those results and what the doctors conclude, we’re very optimistic. Jamie seems fine and ready to resume life on Sophie. We anticipate he’ll be released later today or tomorrow. Will let you know.

Today in Moorea we hopped into the dinghy at 7:45 this morning, crossed the reef that connects Opunohu Bay with Cook’s Bay, and had a family outing at the local tattoo parlor in Paopao.

I went first. Mine is a yellowfin tuna on my right shoulder. I am glad I did 97 pushups this morning. Now that I have a large tattoo that is visible under all short sleeve shirts, I have decided to dedicate my life to improving my biceps and triceps.

Becca went next. Hers is an incredibly small tatoo of a Tahitian gardenia on her hip. No one will ever see this in public.

By the way, getting tattoos turns out to be incredibly painful. I brought a hip flask of scotch with me. I am not sure if it helped ease the pain, but we passed it around. It made for a fun morning.

Max followed Becca. His tattoo, on his upper right shoulder, is a unique design representing man and woman surrounded by family surrounded by ocean.

Jenna went last. She has an awesome design of a ray on her inner right ankle that symbolizes our family and our ocean crossing. The two marks at the base of the wing represent our children. It’s beautiful and will look especially great when she wears high heeled sandals!

Leo and Hazel chose to not get tattoos today.

Thoughts?

Those are the lyrics to a song Hazel created yesterday 5 minutes after we cracked open a bottle of Argyle to celebrate the news that Becca had been accepted to Cornell Medical School, her first choice.

We’ve been in full-on vacation mode since Max and Becca joined us in Papeete last Saturday, complete with the occasional morning cocktail, wakeboarding on the paddleboards (above), and hours of board games in the aft cockpit. Everything has been perfect.  Except for when the wind kicked up to 20 knots when I took Max and Becca trolling outside the reef yesterday (Becca has never caught a fish on a pole before. We got soaked). And the lamb neck slices I barbecued for dinner last night (Becca has never liked lamb before. They looked like a bag of frozen steaks when I bought  them in the store. They were awful. Worst meat mistake of my life. Why on earth would anyone sell a bag of frozen lamb neck slices? Seriously? She still doesn’t like lamb).

After 10 weeks either at sea and or anchoring in remote locations, we finally arrived in the big city of Papeete a week ago, and I have to say I didn’t like it. It was great to reprovision at Carrefour, and the downtown marche was fun, but the overall stress and noise and traffic of the city really bothered me. We had a dock at Marina Taina 5 miles south of the city. It was a lovely marina, but our stern tie/pasarelle arrangement didn’t work very well when a big swell kicked up. We rented a car for 2 days. We went out to eat a few times. We went snorkeling by the airport and found a plane in 20 feet of water. That was about it.

We are now in Moorea anchored in Cook’s Bay, and that is much nicer.  There is still a fair bit or road noise, along with a rooster that SOMEONE needs to put in a stew pot so it will finally stop crowing 7×24. But we are surrounded by mountains thousands of feet high. The swimming is great. The people are nice. There is a gas dock right next to us so we don’t have to worry about running out of dinghy fuel while wakeboarding.

We went to a traditional Tahitian dance at the Kona Bali Hai the other night and had a wonderful time. The venue was basically a motel, and the troupe was a group of locals who danced together once a week. You could tell they were having so much fun with each other, and that made the experience all the better for us.

We have Max and Becca for another 10 days, and I hope the time doesn’t go by too quickly. (In case you don’t know  by now, Max is my older son. He’s attending law school. Becca is his girlfriend. She is going to attend medical school).

Today we will explore the island. Tomorrow we will head over to Opunohue Bay, the other cruising spot in Moorea. We’ll spend the weekend there and then head back to Cook’s Bay  on Monday morning for tattoos. Yes, we have an appointment with a local ink artiste, and I am hopeful that four of us will be his customers. I have already selected my art. Stay tuned …

This is the galvanized steel snap shackle that we used to attach our anchor chain to our anchor bridle in Fakarava. The metal is 1/2 ” thick and is bent 5 inches out of shape.

(Nails courtesy of Becca).