Day 6

Making progress …

We did 182 miles in our first 24 hour stretch in the trade winds, all on a port tack under reefed main and jib. Our noontime position is 19.24.69 n 120.04.5 w. We made 182 miles in the 24 hour period, our best run yet. The ICTZ begins at 11 n right now, so at this rate we will be there in three days. We’ve gone 828 nm since San Diego, and our goal is to make that 1000 by tomorrow to wrap up our first full week of sailing. We feel pretty good about our current pace and that we are making up for our light air days earlier in the week. We haven’t run our engines yet, so we have plenty of fuel to get us through the flat water in the ITCZ.

++++ Fish Break ++++ As I am typing this, we got our first hit on the trolling rod. Dan and I ran out there, a large fish was running with the line REALLY FAST while we were sailing at 10 knots, but we lost him. The good news is there are actually fish out here!

Anyway, it was pretty rough this morning with a 25-30 knot northerly with 8 foot seas and a NW swell. We had a single reef in the main overnight, and as Dan and I put in a second reef this morning, the beautiful new cover on our brand new second reef line got caught between two mast cars and completely separated, exposing 15 feet of the line’s spectra core and jamming up some of the reef blocks. Bummer (my fault). We went out on the boom and tied off the reefed sail with two new ropes to relieve the pressure on the damaged line, then went back out there later and replaced the entire reef line with a spare halyard. It was my first time crawling out the boom while inside the sail cover, and I must say it was kind of fun.

Current conditions are sunshine, 20-25 knt northerly, and boat speed between 7 and 9 knots with a comfortable motion. Jenna’s chicken enchiladas last night were a hit, and Dan is about to make sausage bread.

Day 5

We’re getting there …

Our new position is 22.26.2 n 120.17.8 west, which means we covered 162 miles in the last 24 hours. We’ve been tacking downwind to do so, and as the wind continues to shift over to the NNE (030-050), where it is supposed to stay for the next 5 days, we think we will be able to sail on a broad reach course directly towards the new waypoint the weather routers gave us (05.00 n 127.00 w). It’s blowing 12-20 right now, with a small running swell. Sophie is sailing quite comfortably with a full main and jib, and Rich got her up to 11.6 knots at one point this morning. If this pattern continues, tomorrow could be even better.

The sky is gray and overcast, just like you-know-where.

The kids are getting their sea legs, and we’ve had a couple of good home schooling days. Hazel’s reading is measurably improving every day, and Leo has kicked off a big “Kid’s Guide to Sophie” writing project that he is quite excited about. I promised him that when he’s done and if he puts the appropriate effort into it, I will post his document on the Lagoon cruisers website.

Rich and Dan are great crew, and my favorite time of day is when Jenna and I pull a watch together at night. We are doing a rotating 2-on-at-a-time watch schedule at nights along with a more flexible arrangement during daylight hours based on who is awake and not teaching.

As we transition Sophie into becoming a warm water long distance cruiser, we know we have to do some things differently. One is to pay more attention to temperature and ventilation throughout the boat. For example, I was going on watch last night at 2:00 AM, pressed the button on the espresso machine for a shot, and all of the AC power throughout the boat immediately went out. No AC power on Sophie means no coffee, no drinking water, and ultimately no movies or personal electronics … in other words, the end of civilization. 🙂 I eventually got over my panic, poked around a bit, and figured out that we had overheated the inverter (the machine that converts the battery’s DC power into AC power) by placing a box of fishing gear in front of the inverter locker’s air vent. Another heat problem involved our Raymarine navigation electronics. For months our Raymarine autopilot intermittently flashed a “SeaTalk connection lost” message while underway. We assumed it was loose cabling and kept tightening all of the connections, but Dan discovered it was caused by the Raymarine network hub overheating inside the unvented plastic splash protection box we built for it five years ago! This usually happened when the Raymarine’s nextdoor neighbor, our diesel generator, was running. These sorts of heating problems simply never happened when cruising the 48 degree F waters of Puget Sound, but it looks like they have become part of our lives from now on.

We also have to pay closer attention to sail trim. We chafed a small hole in one of the mainsail batten covers yesterday and need to constantly make sure that sail doesn’t touch the shrouds while underway. We can repair it for the time being with sail tape, but I am really bummed this happened and need to be more careful moving forward.

Dinner last night involved organic chicken breasts in a Trader Joe’s Marsala sauce with basmati rice and an organic kale nut salad. Tonight we will have chicken enchiladas. Unless, of course, we land a fish.

Day 4

What a difference a day makes!

We did 153 nm in the last 24 hours, with most of it coming after midnight.

We think we have a shot at a 200 nm day today given the weather forecast along our current boat speed over 8 knots, including a 5 hour run this morning with an average speed over 9 knots. We are currently at 24.45.647 n 118.45.053 w at a heading of 196m and have 14 knots of apparent wind on our starboard aft quarter. We are currently sailing with full main and jib in bright sunshine through beautiful blue seas. Trade winds rock!

We spent most of last night with a reef in the main and at one point Jenna had to take in a reef in the jib when the apparent wind hit 28 knots during our second squall of the evening. We also came within 6 nm of two different freighters. For dinner I made a lemon pepper roast pork loin on a bed of root vegetables with a braised kale mix on the side. I’m told it was pretty good.

We woke up this morning to find 3 squid on deck, used two of them as bait but still haven’t caught any fish yet.

Everyone is doing great, and Sophie really likes this.

Day 3

Last night the Pacific was more quiet than I’ve ever seen Lake Washington. Our position at noon today is 27.18.01 n 118.53.927 w. That’s a rock’in and rollin’ 76.1 nm in 24 hours. We basically sat in glass-like water looking at stars for most of the night. They were beautiful stars, and even though we are still keeping the two-on-at-a time schedule at night, everyone had a good night’s sleep. We’ve also done four loads of laundry and multiple boat projects.

Currently we are sailing at 4-5 knots SOG in 7 knots of apparent wind on a course of 143 magnetic. We’re basically back on the rhumbline, and we hope to make up for our slow day starting tonight. Wind forecast is for 10-15 building tonight then 15-20 on Friday and Saturday building to 20-25 with gusts to 30 on Sunday and Monday, all from the WNW then NW then NE. This is the wind we had coming down off Oregon in September, and Sophie cruised comfortably at average speeds over 10 knots with 2 reefs in the main and half the jib up. Can we do it again? We’ll see.

It’s also warmer, with a cockpit temperature reading of 66 degrees. All-in-all we are off to a good start.

Marquesas Trip Day 2

Another good day, with a much calmer night last night. At noon today our position is 28.34.065 n 118.51.374 w. We’re sailing with the chute and no main straight downwind on our rhumb line at 3-4 knots. We made 147 miles over a 24 hour period and would have broken 150 if we hadn’t wrapped the chute around the forestay. It took an hour to unravel, but its back up with no tears. Then the wind died. We are now in mid 60’s sunshine, running the genset, doing laundry and hanging out.

Best of all, we’ve ditched our Seattle clothes for shorts and sunhats. Jenna is making lasagne for dinner. We hope to see more dolphins again after the sun goes down. They leave torpedo wakes of phosphorescence directly under the trampolines, a site that’s pretty remarkable, even for dolphin sightings.

Marquesas Trip Day 1

Hi everyone. We’re off to a good start. At noon today our position is 32.52.2 n 117.54.540 w. We’re sailing with full jib and main around 8 knots on a heading of 194m with a 14 knot wind to our beam. Our goal for the day is is to avoid Guadaloupe Island. We’ve made 116 nm from the San Diego fuel dock in 20.5 hours.

We had a quiet night. We started out with code zero and full main and at sunset tucked in a reef while switching to the jib. We went back to the code zero this morning until the wind picked up and veered more to the west.

It’s really cold and overcast, Seattle style. (Which is where we left most of our warm clothing :-). The kids are doing great, and Dan and Rich are wonderful crew. We’re debugging a few systems and are still putting things away. Sophie LOVES being back offshore.

We’ll do another update at noon tomorrow and will start measuring how much sea we cover in 24 hours. Also, you can start tracking our progress at http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0mqCOqT6lCXcXBDyvy4IJrK3809aAbJSq.

We’re Off!

Departed San Diego at 3:30 PM today. Weather forecast is for ~10 knot winds until Thursday when we will not some nice trades.

We’ll be posting daily updates on this blog. Wish us luck!!!

We leave in 11 days.

Hello everyone. Sorry for our reticence over the last month. Between goodbyes, another road trip and then boat preparations, you could say we’ve been a bit busy.

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After we left the frozen Northeast we made our way back to San Diego via Washington DC (Inauguration), Kennett Square (more PA cousin love), Charleston, Pensacola, Texarkana, Albuquerque, and the Grand Canyon. The food in  Charleston and the spectacular view of the Grand Canyon were highlights of the trip, and we will definitely return to visit both some day. Now that we are back home in San Diego — and yes, Sophie is now definitely ‘home” — we are feeling much more comfortable with our homeschooling efforts. We loved visiting with our families and exploring the country by car, but both of these activities just aren’t that conducive for getting the kids to focus on things like English and math. But we are back and the kids are doing great.

In terms of boat preparation, it seems that we have tackled just about every major item on our to-do list, including servicing all of the major boat systems and fixing our nagging problems with leaks and mold. We’ve conducted multiple scouting missions to Costco and Trader Joes and are developing a sense for what we are going to eat for our first 10 weeks of the trip. I love the photo above … it’s a slightly tanned Jenna at Costco posing with a bag of dried figs.

We used sittercity.com to locate a local babysitter, which has enabled us to get out and see Silver Linings Playbook, Lincoln, Die Hard Another Day, and The Impossible. Lincoln was a bit of disappointment, Bruce Willis was a bit of a mistake, but the food in San Diego’s Little Italy neighborhood is really good. It’s nice to occasionally get out and enjoy San Diego.

Our marine insurance company has asked us for our cruising itinerary for the next year. Jenna keeps reminding me that the first, second, and third rule of cruising is to never ever ever lay out a strict itinerary and schedule because you want to have the flexibility to learn about new places on the way while avoiding being forced to go through a storm because you feel compelled to reach a particular destination by an exact date. It’s best to be flexible and mellow.

Nevertheless, here is the itinerary I pulled together which I now share with all of you for purely illustrative purposes:

This entire list is subject to change, but overall I have to say that it sure beats work.

The best thing about this last month is that we have developed a quiet sense of confidence about the trip. The kids are doing really well; the constant attention from their parents along with the daily visits to the marina’s pool are probably eliminating the need for them to antagonize each other. Hazel is becoming a shark in the water, and Leo is doing graduate school-level Lego designs (without manuals). Best of all, the kids now think it’s normal to live on a boat and to do home schooling pretty much on a daily basis (mostly due to Jenna, she has thrown herself at this whole area with great energy and focus).

Jenna and I are feeling pretty good about the boat. We think the engines, radios, plumbing, watermaker, lights, refrigeration, rigging, electronics and sails will all work. And if they don’t, we will have plenty of spares and repair manuals that we can use to fix them. We think we know where we will store everything. We’ll use a weather router to help guide our way south, avoid storms and make a fast crossing of the ITCZ. Best of all, there are currently 128 other boats heading from the Americas to French Polynesia this season, so we’ll have company along the way along with future friends that we’ll hang out with at all of those places I list above.

The next 11 days will go by quickly. And then we leave.

In 9 weeks, are we really at the Equator?

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As I mentioned before, we are in the middle of Cousin-Palooza in the frozen Northeast of the US, but it is beginning to dawn on us that in nine short weeks we should be at or near the Equator. We’ve set a tentative departure date of March 3rd, which means in 7 short weeks WE ARE LEAVING.

Time is flying by.

Between now and then we plan to complete our Northeast tour with stops in Baltimore, NYC, New Haven, Kennet Square (Mushroom Capital of the World) and Washington DC. We then plan to drive across the country using a Southern route with potential tourist stops in New Orleans and the Grand Canyon before moving back onboard Sophie around the first of February.

In the meantime, I’ve started writing down a rough “to-do” list for February:

Electronics

  • Buy Navionics chart chips for Pacific
  • Fix Raymarine alarm, network cable
  • Get SSB/Pactor modem/Sailmail working
  • Buy Satphone

Boat/Rigging

  • Catalogue/buy remaining spare parts
  • Replace reef lines on main
  • Rig additional jacklines for the kids
  • Replace stainless steel set screws on mast
  • Conduct end-to-end rig/system inspection /bolt tightening (the Steve Dashew way)
  • Change oil in diesels/genset
  • Replace watermaker filters
  • Remove clothes and junk we really don’t need (It’s amazing how living aboard can motivate you to downsize)
  • Buy and mount the paddleboards Jenna and I are getting 🙂

Health

  • Update our offshore first aid kit
  • Buy additional meds and narcotics
  • Take first aid/CPR classes (me and Jenna)

Survival

  • Organize and complete our ditch bag
  • Buy a handheld desalinator

Food

  • Plan meals
  • Shop

Needless to say, we welcome additional suggestions. We had most major systems (diesels, watermaker, liferaft, electronics, rigging) serviced in Seattle, and we already have a decent amount of spares. The second largest West Marine in the world is a mile from where Sophie is docked.

Finally, we are discussing what type of watch system we want to use for the Marquesas run. With 4 adults on board, we are considering going with overlapping night shifts where 2 adults are awake at any given time. Thoughts?

San Diego to Elk Rapids (MI) to Shrewsbury (MA)

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Well, we’ve been having so much fun driving across the country for the last few weeks that we have neglected the blog. Around the middle of December we finally traded in our Southern California t-shirts and shorts for Northern Michigan parkas and boots and drove 2,600 miles across the country in four days to visit Jenna’s family for the start of the holidays. We followed much of historic Route 66 along the way. Our overnight stops included Albuquerque (840 miles), Springfield MO (827 miles), and Chicago (520 miles) before arriving in Elk Rapids, Michigan (333 miles). Immediately after we crossed the country we had the pleasure of enjoying a Midwest holiday blizzard in a beautiful house by a frozen lake, celebrating the holidays in-style AND early-style with Jenna’s parents, grandmother, sister, brother-in-law, 2 cousins, 2 uncles, and an aunt. We had a great time, played a LOT of hearts, connected with family, and the kids got to experience a white pre-Christmas. Leo even had the opportunity to operate a snow blower.

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Although we pushed pretty hard to get across the country on our way to Michigan, including a couple of 12+ hour days with speeds that more than occasionally topped 100 miles per hour, the distance we’ve covered so far on this leg is less than the 3,000 miles we plan to cover on Sophie on the Marquesas leg. We live in a really big country, and the ocean we are about to cross is even bigger.

After a week or so in Elk Rapids, we decided to drive 890 miles in a single shot on Christmas Eve to Shrewsbury MA to visit with my parents and family. We left Michigan around 8:30 at night and pulled into the Utzschneider’s driveway 12 hours and 45 minutes later. Along the way we crossed a long stretch of Ontario, saw the mists rising off of Niagara Falls, and felt that pleasant sense of familiarity for both of us as we returned to the commonwealth of our childhood. I started to drop my “r’s and Jenna pretty much smiled the entire time we were on the Pike.

While in Mass for a week, we saw my parents, some more of my brothers and sisters (I have 8, you know … and I am the quiet, shy one), celebrated Christmas with my beloved older children Sara and Max, and did even more hanging out.

We then decided to do another road trip and spent nights in Kennett Square, PA (Mushroom Capital of the world), Baltimore, and NYC to visit with 2 of Jenna’s sisters, 2 of my sisters and one of my brothers. We are now back in Shrewsbury for another week before we begin our migration south and west to return to Sophie.

A key theme for this entire trip has been “Cousin-Palooza” for Leo and Hazel because they’ve had the chance to play/sled/bowl/dimsum with 10 cousins so far, and we expect to connect with another 5 before we take off next week. It’s really important for them to know their extended family of 21 cousins before all of the weddings start in the next few years.

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We’ve have traveled 5,080 miles since we left San Diego 3 weeks ago. What a big country.